Keswick Vineyards

Have you ever wondered how a winery and winemaker confidently predicts how a wine should be tasting it’s best in 8-10 years? When you have a few years of wine making behind you, have a style that has been consistent and grow grapes in a conducive environment;  then guessing the age ability of wine is really not that hard. That being said, we assume the wine is not being kept above the kitchen stove where temperature fluctuations happen on a daily basis, instead they are being stored in pristine cellars where temperature and humidity levels are perfect.

So why are storage conditions so important?

There are three storage conditions of concern to collectors and consumers of fine wine: light, humidity and temperature. The storage area for wine must be dark because ultraviolet (UV) light will damage wine by causing the degradation of otherwise stable organic compounds found in wine. Since these organic compounds contribute to the aroma, flavor and structure of the wine, the changes caused by UV light result in the deterioration of the essence of wine. Have you ever wondered why clear glass is not often used anymore, with darker green bottles being preferred for red and white wine? Well know you know

The only reason humidity is an issue in wine storage is because of the use of the traditional cork seal. The relative humidity of the storage area (i.e., the amount of gaseous water in the air) can exacerbate the rate of evaporation of wine from the bottle if the cork is defective. Since corks are far from perfect in their ability to seal a bottle of wine, ullage (the space between the bottom of the cork and the wine level in the bottle) develops in almost all bottles stored for extended periods due to evaporation. If the cork (seal) is defective, low humidity in the storage area will result in wine moving out of the bottle faster over time and significant ullage will develop in less time under these conditions. Thus, the more important issue is the quality of the cork seal and not the relative humidity in the storage area. Of course, very low humidity can dry out the cork leading to sealing problems. The advent of technical closures and screw caps though sort of takes the humidity issue out of the equation, but the conundrum is. Are wines bottled under screw caps, really destined for long-term aging? There are some trials being done on wines bottled under screw caps and the results are quite astonishing but that is for another blog I think.

Assuming one has good cork seals, and a non-drying (i.e., moderately humid) and dark storage area, the most important factor in the storage and aging of wine is temperature. If you ask most anyone associated with wine, from collector to so-called expert, they will most likely tell you that the ideal storage temperature is 55° to 60°F. According to conventional wisdom, wine develops most harmoniously if stored in this temperature range with little or no fluctuation. So, for example, an excellent storage temperature would be 55°F with a fluctuation of plus or minus one degree.

Lets assume that storage is perfect and that all variables associated with atypical aging have been taken care of, all that leaves is the quality of the wine. Hang on a moment, what determines the quality of a wine, what if it was a good wine that was designed to be consumed in one to two years? The plot thickens. Hah, a great wine can certainly be something that needs to be consumed young, think Sauvignon or Chenin Blanc for example.

Their charm lies in their accessibility and their lack of over complicated terms and descriptors. I would just love to read a label where it says the following.

Enjoy me, for I am delicious

Case closed, drink it how you like, when you like and with whom you like and if you love it, have another. With all the food pairings, temperatures you have to serve it at, don’t we sometimes just have to remember to enjoy the wine, is it not the reason we make it?

Before I digress too much further, as a winemaker I am asked to write back labels for wines that I have made prior to them being bottled. The information we provide includes the blend, some flavors and aromas the customer might perceive and the age ability of the wine. For our 2007 Heritage, I said the wine should age 8-10 years and drink beautifully. The question is, can I confidently say that the wine will actually taste that good if someone  laid it down for that period of time? Honest answer, I think so but do I know for certain, NO!

I thus thought I needed to develop a tasting guide for all the wines that we have made here at Keswick Vineyards, advising the consumers who have these wine in their cellar, if they needed to be drinking or holding onto them. My research project thus consists of opening up 115 wines over the next few weeks and developing new tasting notes with the suggestions of drink now; not yet ready or past its prime.

It should be a very informative period of “tasting”, one that will be hugely beneficial to me as a winemaker to re-visit wines that I have not tasted for a while. I should also able to go back to my original notes and see how these wines have aged, as I have them stored in a Eurocave where the temperature has been constant and any atypical aging can be directly attributed to wine making instead of environmental conditions.

I shall take into account vintage variation, wine making methodologies and wax lyrical about non-interventionist wine-making. I shall present a very honest opinion [for this will be from my point of view] about how the wines are tasting at that very moment.

I am therefore asking if you taste an older vintage of our wines, please let me know what you think about it. Could the wine age longer or was it past its prime and how long would you still leave it for if you have another bottle. I hope to have this tasting guide up in about a month. HMM, 4 weeks and 115 bottles of wine as a rate of 28.7 bottles per week. You have got to love doing some research!

Stay tuned for the results.

Best

Stephen Barnard

Winemaker

Keswick Vineyards

I love wine, I drink my weight in wine and if you have seen me lately you will know that I am saying I drink a fair bit. One of the most fascinating about this elixir is that it transports you a to another world, in that the wine you drink reflects the area or place in which it was grown. Why is a Chardonnay from California so remarkably different to one from Burgundy?

The concept of Terroir speaks to this notion, that due to a variety of influences [soil, elevation, row direction, planting density, cropping levels etc] a wine from distinctly different areas will always taste unique. No matter the influence of the winemaker, a Chardonnay grown in the Cote d Or of Burgundy will taste remarkably different to one grown in the Russian River AVA of California. You could argue that there are stylistic similarities [full malo-lactic fermentation or the use of French oak], but that the inherent differences in the wine will always take you back to the place where it all starts, the vineyard.

Thai food was on the menu last night, and I thought it the perfect opportunity to break open a few bottles of wine. I am beginning to see a trend between Asian inspired dishes and my need to open up really good wine.

Last nights trip of choice, was to South Africa with a gorgeous Springfield Estate 2008 Wild Yeast Chardonnay and France, with a 2005 Chateau Haut Bergeron from Sauternes.

The Chardonnay is made by winemaker Abrie Bruwer, and the estate is located in Robertson, South Africa. I have always been an admirer of this producer and if you get the chance, look for the “Life from Stone” Sauvignon Blanc and the “Methode Ancienne” Cabernet Sauvignon, you will not be disappointed. With many tools at a winemakers disposal nowadays, this winemaker tends to go back to basics and focus on the vineyard, producing world-class wines that reflect the sense of place. His wine making philosophy is one of minimal interference, fermenting wines with natural yeast, avoiding filtration unless absolutely needed and as the website quotes “let the wine make itself”.

The 2008 harvest was by all means a fairly tricky one, with cooler than average temperatures and higher than average rainfall. Many producers talk about the fight against fungal disease and the importance of picking at the right time. The biggest positive is that cooler temperatures lead to  retention of acid in the fruit and better phenolic ripeness. [Information taken from Angela Lloyds 2008 harvest report].

The Springfield Chardonnay is fermented entirely in stainless steel tank but is allowed to undergo 100% malo-lactic fermentation, and is furthermore aged on the lees for over a year prior to bottling.  The wine displayed gorgeous tropical aromas that followed through onto the palate, marked by vibrant acidity which ensured this Chardonnay was lively and focused. I have been pretty down on Chardonnay wines recently, but this wine will certainly change a few opinions and is a champion that Chardonnay still has plenty to offer the consumer. You owe it to yourself to seek this bottle out and give it a try; not withstanding it is from my home country, I really loved this wine!

From New World to Old World, a dessert wine from Sauternes finished the evening off.

This particular Sauternes is made up of 60% Semillion and 40% Sauvignon Blanc.

Many experts believe the Haut-Bergeron to be the best of the Non-Classified Sauternes. Part of their vineyards are in Barsac, with the remaining vineyards in Preignac [right next to the world-famous Chateau D Yquem].

The first thing you notice is the gorgeous color which is brilliantly gold, with amber tinges. The aromas are rich and luscious with apricots, honey and caramel tones. This wine is wonderfully textured, rich and lengthy and I suspect there is a fair amount of new oak in this wine [although I cannot confirm]. For all my praises;  my wife Kathy did not enjoy this wine at all, alluding to a smell that just did not agree with her. The beauty of wine is that we each have our own opinions. I thought this wine to be showing beautifully though and may still have a few years left in the bottle, although I would probably drink it in the next 2-3 years.

What a way to spend an evening, eating Thai food, drinking South African and French wine will sitting in Charlottesville US.  Life is good especially when you can share it with people you love.

This was one trip worth taking, and that for me is the ultimate beauty of wine. Tonight I think I might visit Australia.

Here’s to wonderful wines

Cheers

Stephen

Keswick Vineyards

I was doing some serious research last night, and by that I mean I was drinking wine and enjoying it. Thanks to Andy Regan [winemaker of Jefferson Vineyards], I was enjoying his latest Meritage from the  2009 vintage. Based mainly on the Cabernet Franc grape, this is sure to be crowd pleaser with dark fruit on the nose complimented by well-integrated oak and good acidity. It is a stellar effort from one of Virginia’s best wine makers. Andy, you owe me a beer for that endorsement!

Monday’s are mostly low-key affairs and with my brother and sister-in-law coming round for dinner along with her significant other and a good friend of ours, Aaron Watson [who just happens to be an amazing local photographer],  I decided to pull out all the stops for dinner. This involved a quick call to the local Chinese restaurant, ensuring that dinner was indeed half decent. With the Jefferson Meritage freshly out, a new bottle was called for and the Keswick Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was thought to be the ideal candidate. This was a special vintage and this was indeed a special wine as it was the lucky winner of the Virginia Governors Cup in 2009.

There really is no better time to crack open a special bottle of wine than with people you enjoy being around, on some random for no good reason day. I would be lying if I said it went well the Chinese food but that really is not the point. With a quick decant to remove the heavy sediment, glasses were duly filled, accompanied by gasps of “You opened what” I have not tried this wine for a while now; and I was not disappointed. It clearly has some life in it with big firm tannins, accented by smoky undertones. Blended with 25% Merlot, this wine is distinctly fruit forward with dark berries, plums and just a hint of cigar box. What I enjoyed most about the wine though was the long finish and the supple overall texture of the wine. Let me be totally honest and say there is a definite hint of biasm here due to me making it, but if you have a few bottles of this wine lying around  why not crack one open now, I am sure you will not be disappointed.

With my mantra of drinking special bottles of wine on random days with funny foods, crack that bottle you have been saving open, while sitting in your pajamas with a big bowl of ice cream. If the wine is as good as you think it is, it will make any day a special day, even a Monday!

Cheers

Stephen

Keswick Vineyards

the passport, available at all participating wineries and cidery

Blenheim, Jefferson Vineyards, Castle Hill Cidery and Keswick Vineyards are pleased to announce the launch of the Winter Wonderland passport program, which runs up until April 1st 2012.

The concept of this marketing effort is simple, purchase a passport at one winery and taste for free at the others. This is a wonderful opportunity for customers who plan on making a day out of visiting and tasting some fantastic Virginia wines and ciders.
Available for $15 at any of the participating wineries, this card saves you $10 on the normal tasting room fees you would incur.

I think it is important to promote other wineries and businesses within the State and I have known Kirsty [winemaker for Blenheim] and Andy [winemaker for Jefferson] for a long time and am a huge admirer of the wines they have been producing. We are also excited that Castle Hill Cidery has come on board and Stuart [Cider Maker] is doing some wonderful things and everyone should go and taste their products in what is a beautiful tasting room.

All the wineries are within about 20-30 minutes driving distance, so visiting each in a single day is easily doable. Stop in at Keswick Hall or the  Clifton Inn for lunch; take in Monticello [about a mile from Jefferson Vineyards] to break things up.
visit us all on one day or take your time, just bring your passport with you and your tasting will be complimentary upon your arrival.

I can promise you, having these wines and ciders recently that you will not be disappointed

Cheers

Stephen
Keswick Vineyards

After the 2010 vintage in Virginia [arguably the best in recent times], the 2011 growing season was also going to struggle to reach the lofty standards of its predecessor. To say that 2011 failed miserably, would be similar to saying that Drew Brees had an okay year [this makes sense if you know that he broke Dan Marino's all time passing yards in a single season, 5084 set in 1984 when Marino played for the Miami Dolphins].

Mother Nature ruled this year and her awesome power was on display more times than anyone of us would wish for. From a devastating earthquake in New Zealand to the horrific Tsunami in Japan, 2011 was littered with catastrophic natural disasters. Closer to home, Tuscaloosa was hit hard by the April 27th Tornado, Virginia experienced a 5.8 magnitude earthquake on August 23rd, quickly followed by the August 27th appearance of hurricane Irene. 2011 was certainly unforgettable, but for all the wrong reasons.

The season started off well enough with a milder than normal winter, allowing us to get the vineyard pruned with time to spare. We started seeing some bud break around April 7th, which is fairly typical in the Chardonnay. We experienced no loss due to spring frost, which can be especially damaging to our 16 acres of Viognier and all signs pointed to a decent growing year, at least we were off to a pretty good start.

Flowering started 56 days after bud break and generally commences when daily average temperatures are between 58 and 68 degrees.  Fruit set occurred almost immediately after [when the fertilized flower produces a seed and a berry to protect the seed]. This stage is one of the most critical periods for the grape grower as it has ramifications for the potential yield of a vineyard as not every flower on the vine gets fertilized. Weather conditions play a significant role and stress conditions including lack of water, temperature and humidity can all play a role in significantly reducing the flowering and thus the crop.

Up until this point, we  were very optimistic about the potential harvest, we had a full crop throughout the vineyard and everything looked pretty good.  Our vines were balanced, disease pressure was minimal and other than canopy management, weed control and trunk stripping, the season was pretty much going along as expected.

It was around veraison or the days before that we really started experiencing some rain. Veraison is the point in which green grapes turn red, due to Chlorophyll turning into Anthocyannins [red varieties] and Carotenoids [white varieties]. It is also the point in which sugars in the form of glucose and fructose are produced and the acid levels drop. The problem with rain, and as was the case in 2011 continuous rain, was the development of mildews and especially botrytis.  While botrytis [noble rot] can make some of the most sought after wines in the world], with continued wet conditions, this rot can turn into a malevolent form [grey rot or vinegar rot].

This year I really got to know Ol Betsy [the faithful tractor] and Herb [the sprayer], because other than leaf pull, dropping infected fruit and praying, the only thing we could do was spray. This goes against all matter of principle in our grape growing and winemaking philosophy, whereby intervention is ideally kept to a minimum, unfortunately this year was one in which ideology was shelved and we did everything we could to ensure we produced decent fruit and ultimately decent wines.

So how did we fare in the winery?

Thankfully Chardonnay, Verdejo and some Viognier were picked prior to the major rains, albeit at lower than desired sugar levels. The promising aspect of these wines though is their incredible acidity, a component of winemaking I think needs more attention. Acidity ensures the wines are focused and bright and we worked really hard to reflect that in the wines we were producing. Pressing was done as gently as possible and the wines were made as anaerobically [devoid of any oxygen] as possible. Very few wines were barrel fermented, choosing instead to  ferment in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Having tasted these wines last week, I can honestly say that the Chardonnay is the best we have ever produced, and while the Viognier is not as bright in character in recent years, it is still outstanding. They crackle with vibrant acidity and have a varietal character, which is fantastic.

Reds were hardest hit, with later season reds such as Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot feeling the force of the rain. It was a catch 22 situation for us as the fruit was not ready to be picked, sugars were low and tannins were green and under-developed but in hindsight, if we had known that we would experience that amount of rain, we truthfully would probably have taken it all. At the end of the day, the Merlot, Touriga and Norton wines are fantastic. We managed to pick ripe Merlot and Touriga, and well Norton, that is a tough son of a gun and I was so impressed with how it fared, I even applauded it in a previous blog. What of the other varieties? We made an incredible Rose’ this year, a dry style that we have already bottled and are looking at releasing in the next few months. When the vineyard gives you lemons, you make lemonade, but it is great lemonade.

All in all though, I think we manged to dodge a bullet, in that it would have been far corse than what it was. I am thankful for having some experience in Virginia and after working the 2003 harvest, I was way more prepared this time round. I can only shudder and imagine what would have happened had this been my first vintage in Virginia. Overall I give the vintage a B+, the wines are developing character and should be fantastic. Although lighter in style than 2010, these are vibrant wines and will no doubt bring pleasure to many a wine drinker.

So while 2011 wraps up, we are already in the vineyard pruning for the upcoming growing season. After a challenging season, I am more focused and motivated than ever to ensure that 2012 goes down as one of our best season yet.

So what was the best thing I made all year?

That easily is my daughter Aria. A blend of 50% Kathy and 50% me, matured in amniotic fluid for 9 months. Released to the world on December 5th, she is showing signs of shock and will need some time to mature. She is already gorgeous but will continue to improve over the next 80 years and will provide joy to many.

So I guess 2011 was really the best year ever if I really think about it.

From my family to yours, and on behalf of everyone here at Keswick Vineyards, I would  like to thank you for your continued support, and to wish you a joyous, blessed and prosperous New Year

Stephen

Bloggers – Meet Charlottesville and her wine!

What do you get when you take 350 bloggers from around the country, the who’s who of the local wine industry, and plenty of out-of-state colleagues? Throw in sweltering temperatures and you have the 2011 Wine Bloggers Conference, which saw the creme de la creme of the blogosphere descend upon the Omni Hotel for a three-day seminar on wine blogging.  Local wines were well represented at this conference, as well as wines from Spain, California, South Africa and Italy amongst others.

The fact that Charlottesville was awarded this conference speaks volumes for the Tourism and Marketing offices who had many months ago proposed that the conference be held in the beautiful state that is Virginia. I also think that this speaks volumes for Charlottesville as a tourist destination, as well as recognizing that we have built up a fairly solid reputation of producing wines that can hold their own against anything that the other 49 states have to offer.

The official launch of the weekends festivities took place on Thursday evening with a tasting of wines from around the world, however not being an official attendant, Keswick Vineyards, along with Blenheim, Pollak and Mountfair decided to have an unofficial Virginia wine tasting at Siips restaurant on the downtown mall. A big thank you to George, who allowed us to occupy some of his popular floor space in order for each of us to pour one wine to any customers who wanted to get a sneak peak of some Virginia wines.  Along with our Verdejo, Blenheim’s fantastic Viognier, Pollaks ever good Merlot and Mountfair’s awesome Cab Franc, the evening turned out to be a vibey affair with folks coming in throughout the evening to sample the wines. Ever present Virginia Wine Bloggers, Swirl Snip Snark, Virginia Wine Time and Drink What You Like came by to say hello as well as bloggers from California, Texas and Florida, who were quite surprised by the quality of our local wines, MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.

I was given strict instructions by my beautiful wife of what was required of me over the next few days, and it was with these in hand along with the absolute fear of her wrath, that I descended upon the Omni Hotel on Friday afternoon for the first of my commitment, pouring our 2010 Verdejo at the Live Wine Blogging for white wines. I have never conducted a tasting like this before, going to 12 tables and introducing, pouring and explaining the wines in the short alloted time of 5 minutes, before bidding adieu and doing it all again. We chose the Verdejo to highlight the diversity of the industry. It is well known that we produce killer Viognier but I was thrilled to see Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris poured, varietals that sometimes do not get as much recognition as their more illustrious counterpart. Comments were tweeted in real time, and then shown on multiple big screens in the room, no place to hide. Luckily from what I saw, most Virginia wines were received rather favorably. 5 Minutes seems like a long time but with that bell constantly reminding me that I was due to move, one hour flew by in no time at all.

Act 2, pouring one white and one red at the home of the father of Virginia wine, Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello. Pouring wine in 100 degree heat is no fun at all and it was no surprise that the whites were the wine of choice, honestly ice cold water would have tasted like the best bottle of wine you have ever tasted. This was the first time that we have poured our 2010 Viognier to the general public, but if that was not pressure enough, Jancis Robinson made her way to the table and introduced herself.

Educated at Oxford [you might have heard of it], with an honorary doctorate from the Open University, this woman knows her stuff, oh and by the way she was the first person outside of the trade to become a Master of Wine. Play up the accent I thought, because dripping with sweat is certainly the way to make an impression. Generally I am happy to pour my wines for anyone, but Jancis Robinson, known to me only by reputation, struck the fear of God into me. Need not have worried, “nice to try a Viognier that is varietally correct, full bodied and rich, can taste that is Viognier” she stated of the Viognier in her British accent, and “this Merlot is complex and interesting, very well done”. She may well have given me the  keys to Buckingham Palace, stoked.

Saturday morning came way to quickly, and after dropping Kathy off at the Omni, it was off to Cafe Europa to pick up lunch for the bloggers who were due to arrive at Keswick Vineyards at 12:15pm. With a heads up from Kathy who was traveling with them, bus #7 duly arrived and the bloggers were quickly ushered into the cool cellar for 3 hours of pouring our wines and having their undivided attention.

I was soon given the floor after a warm welcome from owners Al and Cindy Schornberg. Time to throw out the heavy hitters. Viognier Reserve followed barrel samples of 2010 whites which lead into barrel tastings of our 2010 Bordeaux varietals, with Al’s favorite, the 2007 Heritage and my favorite, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. This was not about Keswick Vineyards, rather about the Virginia Wine industry, and promoting our versatility, and the passion that goes into making these wines, something that cannot be conveyed in 5 minutes. truthfully this was the highlight of the weekend for me. Hopefully the bloggers, most of whom were from out of State, left with an appreciation of Virginia wines and the industry that we all love.

Done right? Not quite, still needed to pour our Governors Cup Winning 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon at the live wine bloggers conference for red wines.  Thank goodness cops were not shooting radar, this Kia made it there in 10 minutes and with a quick swipe of deodorant my lovely wife and I were ready to pour the wine. The vibe in the room felt a lot more relaxed, which I am sure had nothing to do with the high octane wines that were consumed prior. 5 minutes felt longer, probably because I was a bit more efficient with my speech, and trusted that the wine would speak for itself. Tweets were positive so maybe the wine did something I could not, promote itself. I followed Jefferson Vineyards wonderful 2005 Petite Verdot, a hard act to follow as I am a huge fan of Andy Reagan’s wine. I must say that I was happy to not see many Cabernet Francs, we all know that arguably this is the varietal that Virginia does best, but Virginia does so much more, Petite Verdot, Pinotage and Pinot Noir, and by the way our wines do age well, the Jefferson Petite Verdot was a wonderful 2005.

With my duties duly taken care of, at least I hope I did a fair job, it was with eager anticipation that I joined some of my colleagues and other bloggers at the tables to enjoy a 5 course meal, paired with Viognier wines not tasted at Monticello. With wines freely flowing, new friendships were formed while enjoying corn chowder paired with a wonderful Petite Manseng, salad paired with exotic Viognier’s and a main dish of Portobello Mushroom [I'm vegetarian] paired with an exquisite Cabernet Sauvignon. With the 2 perennial showstopping dessert wines of Rockbridge and Gray Ghost, accompanying an array of local cheeses, dinner was finished all too quickly. Honestly, some of the wines did not (in my opinion) pair the best with the foods, but I thought it was fantastic that the Virginia Wine Marketing Office exposed the bloggers to a wide variety of Virginia Wines.

So the big question. Was the conference a success?

In terms of exposure, without a doubt, incredible job by Allan, Reno and Elle of Zephyr Adventures, and Amy, Annette and Mary-Catherine from the Virginia Wine Marketing Office . It is still to soon to really quantify what bloggers and iPads will do for the industry, success cannot be measured by dollars, rather by the fact that Virginia is being written about at all, and that if one persons opinion has been changed to the positive, then I would give a resounding hell yeah to the Wine Bloggers Conference 2011, held at the Omni Hotel, in beautiful Charlottesville.

All the best, and extremely proud

Stephen

Keswick Vineyards